Bar Japonais, 1520 14th St., NW
After five years at DC’s Sushi Nakazawa, chef Masaaki “Uchi” Uchino set up shop inside downtown food hall The Square. His 13-seat counter, Kiyomi, has become known for its 30-minute lunch omakase as well as its more leisurely 15-course dinner. Now, Uchino has been hired as the executive chef of French-Japanese izakaya Bar Japonais in Logan Circle, where he will add an omakase dinner option and expand the a la carte sushi options.
First things first, Kiyomi will remain open and unchanged. Uchino says he’s hired another chef who worked with him at Sushi Nakazawa in New York to oversee the sushi counter. At Bar Japonais, beginning March 6, he’ll introduce a 15-course dinner omakase for $115—the same as what he offers at Kiyomi but perhaps with a couple more luxe touches such as caviar or a wagyu course. He’ll continue to use the same Japanese seafood purveyors that he’s used at both Kiyomi and Sushi Nakazawa.
The biggest difference is that Bar Japonais does not have a sushi counter. Instead of being served their sushi piece by piece, diners will get a couple appetizers, then a plate with multiple pieces of sushi. Uchino says they’re looking into ways to potentially convert part of the bar into a sushi counter in the future.
The a la carte menu will also shift more heavily toward sushi. Currently, the only options are a few rolls, handrolls, and some composed crudo dishes, but Uchino plans to add a full lineup of 10 to 15 types of nigiri, including some seasonal specials.
Changes to the rest of the menu will happen more gradually. Uchino says he’ll be cutting back on cooked plates and adding his own touches to existing dishes. “It’s not going to be the same, even though you see the same menu,” Uchino says. For example, there will still be a katsu curry, but he’s changing the entire recipe.
While Uchino has a more traditional style, he says he’s been enjoying playing with Bar Japonais’s French fusion. He’s adding his own seaweed flake seasoning to the fries on its bar menu, and will offer tuna nigiri marinated in a Cabernet wine-infused soy sauce.
Uchino will also oversee the sake selection at Bar Japonais. He plans to expand that menu from a handful of offerings to a full list with savory, dry, sweet, and seasonal options.
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
