Eat Great Cheap 2017Most Japanese restaurants sling decent tempura—but few turn out a batter as crispy and cloud-like as the one here. Even better, the offerings go beyond the usual shrimp and veggies—we’ll be coming back for the soft-shell-crab version as long as it’s in season this summer. And so it goes at this quaint little spot, which juggles familiar plates such as an eel-and-avocado roll and more esoteric dishes like duck ramen—and does each with skill. Also good: Grilled pork sausages; steamed shu mai (shrimp dumplings).
