Chef/owner Peter Pastan has a love affair with all things Italian, and this crowded, clatter-prone pizzeria is where he showcases his latest passions. His salads, small plates, and charcuterie—he makes his own lomo and capicola—are among the biggest pleasures. The blistered pizzas are less reliable but at their best emerge crisp and slightly charred. And sweets are no afterthought—gelato, sorbetto, and cookies are all excellent.
Don’t miss: Deviled eggs; prosciutto croquettes; pickled sardines; pizza with sausage, rapini, and a fried egg; pizza with cockles, Grana Padano, and chilies; saffron/pine-nut biscotti; honey-lemon sorbetto; weekend doughnuts.
Open: Monday for dinner, Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner.