100 Very Best Restaurants 2013: Sushi Taro

Hushed voices prevail inside Nobu Yamazaki’s dimly lit Japanese restaurant. Nigiri and sashimi are the best in town, and the maki creations are much more than a nod to American tastes: The winner is a habanero-scallop roll, in which the sweet mollusk contrasts gorgeously with searing pepper. Opt for a spot at the sushi bar to watch the day’s catch become expertly sliced by Yamazaki and his talented crew.

Don’t miss: Agedashi tofu; seaweed salad; nigiri of spot prawns or yellowtail; sashimi of fatty tuna, uni, or wild horse mackerel; ramen, an occasional lunch special.

Open: Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner.

Very expensive.

100 Very Best Restaurants 2013

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