100 Very Best Restaurants 2015: No. 66 Toki Underground

Pan-fried seafood dumplings. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

Even in its third year, Erik Bruner-Yang’s ramen spot attracts hour-plus waits for the 27 seats. Fortunately, turnover in the treehouse-like space is quick, thanks to wall-facing stools that encourage a slurp-and-go policy.

The rich stock, toothsome noodles, and custardy sous-vide egg gracing nearly every bowl are reason enough to come, but the rest of the menu offers worthy distractions: bao buns with fried chicken and pickles, or tsukemen (noodles dipped in a side of pork-fat-laced broth). Cocktails including the bourbon-based Toki Monster are expertly crafted, while drinks from the Pug—the divey bar downstairs that’s perfect for killing wait time—are also welcome.

Don’t miss:

  • Pan-fried chicken and pork dumplings
  • Toki Classic or kimchee ramen
  • Chocolate-chip cookies with red-miso buttercream

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