The Atkins Diet may seem like a relic, but restaurant bread service still hasn’t recovered. Not here, where you’ll find gratis baskets of seven-spice rice chips as well as (non-gratis) whimsies such as house-made English muffins with spicy sausage spread and Greek yogurt or zucchini bread with foie gras mousse. The rest of chef Rob Rubba’s menu is a similarly deft mash-up of flavors and influences. An addictive bowl of donburi, the Japanese rice dish, is dressed with Mexican street-corn accents; gnocchi are umami-bombed with kimchee-pork ragu; and garlicky aïoli enriches a Korean-inspired seafood pancake. Rubba’s styling place, done up in dark wood and flowery light fixtures, is a Neighborhood Restaurant Group production, so you can count on the smart beer and cocktail lists that distinguish the empire. Expensive.
Also great: steamed clams with brown-butter/miso broth; sticky-crunchy ribs; duck dinner for two.