The reason to come to this Cantonese standard-bearer is for the shrimp-dumpling soup, a dish that has never wavered in quality. The pepper-sparked broth full of tightly packaged dumplings is hardly a showstopper, yet few dishes are as happy-making. Which also describes the restaurant, a cramped space that redeems dishes you might have given up on elsewhere, such as the stellar beef with black pepper.
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