There’s a tiki-bar vibe—and mai tais on the menu—at this frond-filled dining room, sister to the fancier Duangrat’s down the block. Start with a round of dumplings, whether the robustly sauced shrimp-and-pork or a more offbeat version made from lychee. The star dish is a silky red curry blanketing slices of roast pork—in itself reason to come. Slabs of fried cod tossed in chili sauce are a close runner-up.
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