Cuisine: Brian Robinson oversees an appealing roster of upmarket pub grub (chips with house-cured bacon, mussels steamed in beer) and rib-sticking Southern staples (collard greens, scallops with grits and ham). The cooking is more sophisticated than it reads, but the owners—who also operate the popular bar Whitlow’s on Wilson down the block—keep the mood loose.
Mood: Clarendon/Courthouse yuppies flock to the Art Deco–accented dining room for comfort food in a dressed-up setting.
Best for: A filling meal on a budget; drinks and appetizers on the patio.
Best dishes: Fried oysters with cornmeal crust; shredded duck with pickled cucumbers, bourbon molasses, and lettuce leaves for rolling (Vietnam meets the American South); chicken and waffles; pork shank in a smoky stew of beans and chickpeas; Hawaiian malasada doughnuts with dark-chocolate/coffee dipping sauce.
Insider tips: In winter, ask to sit in the ski-lodge-like room with a fireplace; in summer, the patio is the place to be. There’s a good weekday lunch deal: a soft drink and daily special for $10.
Service: ••
Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate.
See all of 2010's 100 Best Restaurants
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
