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Things We Love: Cedar’s Oyster Pan Roast

We can’t get enough of chef Andrew Kitko’s indulgent bowl of Virginia oysters and sweet vegetables.

The flavors of chef Andrew Kitko’s oyster pan roast were inspired by his New England childhood. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

The simple description on the menu at Cedar, a subterranean Penn Quarter dining room, didn’t prepare us for what arrived at the table—a luscious stew of meaty oysters, which usually hail from Virginia’s James or Rappahannock River, plus leeks and sweet Jerusalem artichokes. Oh, and one more thing: “I don’t really want to tell you how much butter I put in it,” chef Andrew Kitko laughs. The recipe was inspired by the more traditional pan roast served at the Oyster Bar in New York’s Grand Central Terminal as well as flavors from Kitko’s New England upbringing. But we’re pretty sure this beats anything from his Connecticut childhood.

This article appeared in the April, 2010 issue of The Washingtonian.

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