Black Market Bistro
This retro-chic neighborhood spot oozes charm.
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli
Comments () | Published October 10, 2006
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Black Market Bistro
Address: 4600 Waverly Ave., Kensington/Garrett Park, MD 20896
Phone: 301-933-3000
Neighborhood: Rockville, Kensington/Garrett Park
Cuisines: Modern, American, Breakfast
Opening Hours: Open Monday through Thursday 11 to 2:30 and 5 to 9, Friday and Saturday 11 to 2:30 and 5 to 9:30, Sunday 10 to 2:30 and 5 to 8
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Kid Friendly: Yes
Nearby Metro Stops: White Flint
Price Range: Expensive
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Cornmeal-fried oysters with tartar sauce; roast chicken; barbecue shrimp over corn-studded grits; wood-grilled hanger steak with chimichurri; fried-onion-topped cheeseburger; apple crisp; potato latkes and orange-vanilla French toast at brunch.
Price Details: Lunch appetizers, $4 to $9; entrées, $8 to $14. Dinner appetizers, $7 to $12; entrées, $9 to $25. Brunch entrées, $10 to $14.
Special Features:
Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly, Weekend Brunch, Outdoor Seating

January 2006 100 Very Best Restaurants


THE SCENE. Owners Jeff and Barbara Black know how to pick their real estate. In an older neighborhood of turreted Victorians, this turn-of-the-century post office by the railroad tracks oozes country charm. The snazzy comfort food takes it beyond a local hangout.

WHAT YOU'LL LOVE. The front porch for summer dining and the casual drop-in vibe. You'll feel as though you're in some far-flung rural burg instead of mere minutes from "civilization." Freight trains that thunder by only add to the charm.

WHAT YOU WON'T. The first-come, first-served policy means waits on weekends at dinner. And if you're not in the main dining room, you may be left wondering about that vaunted charm--the second dining room feels second-rate.

BEST DISHES. Cornmeal-crusted fried oysters to dunk in chipotle rémoulade; steamed mussels gone Asian with coconut milk and cilantro; crisp-crusted pizzas; pan-seared rockfish with a zippy radish-and-scallion salad; grilled hanger steak with chimichurri; homey roasted free-range chicken with jus; a great hamburger with a heap of brittle onions and the pungent bite of Maytag bleu; an honest-to-goodness triple-layer chocolate fudge cake; and, at brunch, eggs Benedict on tender house-made "angel flour" biscuits.

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Posted at 04:52 PM/ET, 10/10/2006 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews