Cheap Eats 2007: Bangkok 54
Comments () | Published July 11, 2007
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Bangkok 54
Address: 2919 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA 22204
Phone: 703-521-4070
Neighborhood: Arlington
Cuisines: Thai
Opening Hours: Open Sunday through Thursday 11 to 10, and Friday through Saturday 11 to 11.
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Kid Friendly: Yes
Price Range: Inexpensive
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Price Details: Appetizers $3.95 to $10.95; Entrees $6.95 to $12.95. Lunch special, $5.95.
Special Features:
Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly

This chic lounge-eatery might seem trendy and Americanized. The wine list offers Grüner Veltliner and rosé. On the cocktail menu, mango mojitos and saketinis replace Singapore slings. Diners can use silverware or pluck red chopsticks from a vase. There’s even an open kitchen, where grandmotherly cooks slice mango and fashion skewers of satay.

The flavors coming out of that kitchen, though, are mostly bold and true. Flaky pastry puffs filled with yellow-curried potato are wonderfully light. An appetizer of shredded fried catfish is so airy it disappears on the palate. Other dishes—a cellophane-noodle salad with shrimp and minced chicken; a whole rockfish with mango, peanuts, and lime vinaigrette; fried hunks of duck with frizzled basil—leave a slow, pleasant burn on the tongue.

The dessert menu is more of an East-West collision. Do you go for bua loi—a martini glass of warm taro balls soaked in cool coconut milk—or New York–style cheesecake with mango? They’re both tasty.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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Posted at 10:55 AM/ET, 07/11/2007 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews