January 2005Can't get to the Greek islands? Mykonos will satisfy longings for the olive-oil-based cuisine and whitewashed walls of the Aegean. This lively dining room goes beyond Greek diner fare with dishes like smoky eggplant melitzanosalata, an airy mousselike spread to dab on bread or savor by the spoonful, and beautifully cooked whole fish--usually snapper--dressed simply with olive oil, lemon, and fresh herbs.
Other finds include saganaki, pan-fried kasseri cheese sheathed in a brittle crust to spritz with lemon; taramasalata, a creamy dip made from roe and potatoes; fried cod; and the house moussaka, layered with zucchini as well as the usual potatoes, ground meat, and eggplant. Specials like roast lamb shank are worthy plates, too. Keep in mind that Greeks favor well-done meat, so state your preferences.
The salty fare marries well with ouzo, but there's a roster of Greek wines, too. Ultra-sweet desserts like galaktobouriko, an extravaganza of custard, honey, and phyllo, and walnut cake, cry out for thick Greek coffee.