Details

CityZen (Mandarin Oriental Hotel)

1330 Maryland Ave., SW
Washington, DC 20024

202-787-6006

Neighborhood: Capitol Hill, Capitol Hill, Southwest/Waterfront

Cuisines: Modern, American

Opening Hours:
Open for dinner Tuesday through Thursday from 6 to 9:30 PM; Friday and Saturday from 5:30 to 9:30 PM.

Wheelchair Accessible: Yes

Nearby Metro Stops: Smithsonian, L'Enfant Plaza

Price Range: Very expensive

Noise Level: Chatty

Reservations: Recommended

Website: http://www.cityzenrestaurant.com

Best Dishes:
Hits from a recent tasting menu included toro with Meyer-lemon chimichurri; merlu (also known as hake) with piquillo-pepper marmalade; and a pear Linzer torte.

Price Details:
Three-course menu, $75. Five-course tasting menu, $110; vegetarian tasting menu, $90. Three-course bar menu, $50.

Special Features: Wheelchair Accessible, Valet Parking Available, Party Space, Good for Groups

January 2007: 100 Very Best Restaurants

Eric Ziebold reaches for perfection at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel's gleaming restaurant.

No. 3: CityZen

No chef has arrived here with more fanfare than Eric Ziebold, who had just completed an eight-year turn as chef de cuisine at Thomas Keller’s revered French Laundry in Napa Valley when he landed at DC’s opulent Mandarin Oriental two years ago, heirloom-vegetable seeds in hand. Gastronomes asked: Would this be the second coming of Keller?

Well, no. You’ll see flashes of his style, to be sure. What Ziebold calls a “calotte” of beef—the juicy, brown-colored cap on a cut of prime rib—is a Laundry knockoff, as is the carnaroli-risotto Biologico, festooned with Alba truffles and Castelmagno cheese. But where Keller is a playful perfectionist, Ziebold is studied and serious minded: If you’re looking for a foie gras peanut butter and jelly, you won’t find it here.

What you will find is the work of an intense technician who has let go enough to overcome his biggest early shortcoming—dishes that were more intricately conceived and cerebral than delicious. He still overhauls his menu each month and rarely reprises a dish, even very successful ones—what happened to the sublime truffled chicken and buttermilk dumplings or the luscious butter-poached lobster with sweet corn? But his cooking these days feels more relaxed, more lived-in.

Look for anything house-cured: chorizo and prosciutto from baby pigs or veal tongue, pastrami-style. Or anything with an Asian or Americana touch: foie gras shabu-shabu, slices of toro with a Yuengling popover and pickled tomatoes.

An evening in the pillared dining room, all fire and steel, is one of the more expensive experiences in town. Finally, it’s worth it.