Cheap Eats 2011: Plaka Grill

Hankering for a gyro? Head for this order-at-the-counter Greek spot. Its handful of a sandwich sets itself apart in two ways: The warm pita holds spit-grilled pork--not shavings of gyro meat--and is finished with a handful of crispy French fries. But that's not the only reason to visit the snug dining room, done up with a village mural and lined with bottles of Greek wine. Dips such as kalamata-olive tapenade, cloud-like taramasalata, and tyrokafteri, which tastes like a Mediterranean version of pimiento cheese, make nice shares with warm triangles of lightly griddled pita. If you like lots of lemon, look to the avgolemono soup or the rotisserie chicken--both bright with citrusy tang. Many get their food to go, but service is warm and familial, with a sense of humor. One sign reads: unattended children will be given an espresso and a free puppy. Just as long as they don't touch our gyro.

Also good: Feta-and-olive dip; chicken souvlaki; stuffed grape leaves.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.