Even if they weren't surrounded by Angus mini burgers on toasted brioche buns, the brittle, perfectly fried onion straws at Matchbox (713 H St., NW; 202-289-4441) would take center stage. These are everything a fried onion should be–with the right batter-to-onion ratio and loads of crunch. Drape them over the burgers–priced at $7, $10, and $13, with a slice of pickle–or scoop a handful into your mouth, and go to deep-fried heaven.
Washingtonian staff contributing to this section were Chuck Conconi, Sherri Dalphonse, Susan Davidson, Mary Clare Fleury, Cynthia Hacinli, Thomas Head, Stephanie Jones, Ann Limpert, Drew Lindsay, Chad Lorenz, Leslie Milk, William O'Sullivan, Cindy Rich, and Jeremy Stahl. Also contributing were writers Cathy Alter, Ann Cochran, and Jenny Sullivan.