Food

Where Do Chefs Eat Cheap?

We asked the white-coat set where they slurp pho, tear into Korean pancakes, and indulge addictions to pickle juice.

“The beef-brisket sandwich from Wagshal’s in Spring Valley (4855 Massachusetts Ave., NW; 202-363-5698). It’s fatty but not too much, smoky but not too much, and the rye is a perfect chewy foil for the rich meat and a schmear of mustard. I always get a Dr. Brown’s cream soda with it.”

Antonio Burrell, chef de cuisine, Masa 14

“At least once a week, sometimes more, my husband and I go to Pho 75. It makes a great breakfast, lunch, or dinner. I usually order a regular Number 12—no cilantro. Every now and again we get the chicken pho, which is excellent as well. I would love to be able to get a beer with it, but they don’t serve it.”

Tracy O’Grady, chef/owner, Willow

“Korean seafood pancake from H Mart in Falls Church (8103 Lee Hwy.; 703-573-6300). I order it with a side of kimchee. It’s simple and good.”

Bertrand Chemel, executive chef, 2941

“Crabcakes from Jimmy’s Grill at the Maine Avenue Fish Market (1100 Maine Ave., SW; 202-484-6008). The crabcakes are all crab, unlike some that are mostly breading, and I order them with yeast rolls and wilted spinach. It’s great to be by the water and watch all the people at the market haggling for their fish. It’s like taking a step out of DC and going to the Eastern Shore.”

Rachael Harriman, chef de cuisine, Sou’Wester

“I love the crispy roasted potatoes with malt aïoli at Bar Pilar. It’s a tasty snack. I’m normally with my fiancée and a few friends, so we order a good many other dishes, but I’d be damn happy sitting at the bar relaxing with a good IPA and just those taters.”

Daniel Singhofen, executive chef, Eola

“I go to the Quarry House Tavern and get tater tots and a drink called a Pickleback—cheap Jameson Irish whiskey and pickle juice. I love it—the pickle juice cleans your palate. And the tater tots, there’s just something comforting about them.”

Pedro Matamoros, chef/owner, 8407

Pho from Pho Hoa Binh (11782 Parklawn Dr., Rockville; 301-770-5576). I get the small with fat brisket and extra-soft tendon. For under $8, you get a pile of noodles, almost a full quart of broth, a half pound of bean sprouts, jalapeño, lime, and about two full branches of basil. I need to grab a mixing bowl just to fit everything in. The bean sprouts are always fresher than anything you see in the grocery store.”

Nate Waugaman, executive chef, Addie’s

 

Click here for The Washingtonian's 2010 edition of the 100 Best Bargain Restaurants

 

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.