At this low-key pizzeria, in a bandbox of a space near Catholic
University, the sparsely topped Neapolitan-style pies are—at their
best—models of lightness, freshness, and balance. The gorgeous crusts
narrow to a razor’s edge in the center and poof like a balloon on the
perimeter. Pizzaiolo Ettore Rusciano repurposes some of his dough
to make excellent sandwiches,among them a variation on ham and cheese
(prosciutto and buffalo mozzarella) stuffed inside lightly charred
flatbread. The well-curated beer list, which features 20 independent
brews, is worth exploring. Don’t miss: Affetata
(a plate of cured meats, cheeses, and olives); pizzas: Tacchino (smoked
turkey, mushrooms), Bianca (porcinis, Parmesan, prosciutto cotto), Di
Ettore (cherry tomatoes, arugula, prosciutto); tiramisu; orange sorbet.
Open: Monday and Wednesday for dinner, Thursday through
Sunday for lunch and dinner. Inexpensive.