The real achievement here is that chef Fabio Trabocchi has made the waterfront location—with its commanding view of the Potomac—feel almost secondary.
You’d have to take a trip to Eric Ripert’s Le Bernardin, a paean to the piscatory in Midtown Manhattan, to see fish and seafood treated with as much care and skill. Or to see a non-meat meal (there’s but a single meat dish on the dinner menu) ushered into such a rarefied realm of luxury and indulgence.
The special-occasion restaurant has largely disappeared from the scene, as neighborhood spots and high-minded bistros have cropped up by the dozens. This is one to book for that anniversary or birthday, especially if you snag a table overlooking the river. Even just swinging by for lunch (the three-course, $28 prix fixe is a legitimate deal) feels grand and indulgent.
- Hamachi or bluefin toro crudo
- Olive-oil-poached black bass or cod with Prosecco zabaglione
- Wild turbot with smoked potatoes and charred spring onions
- Lobster ravioli
- Spaghetti with clams
- Under the Sea (a stew of langoustines, scallops, turbot, prawns, and foie gras)
- Mint-chocolate tart
- Bomboloni (Italian doughnuts)