“I feel like I’m on vacation already,” says our dining companion when she walks into the foyer, a serene space with pillow-strewn benches. Indeed, the dining room beyond conjures a billionaire’s Amalfi Coast yacht that’s somehow docked on the Georgetown waterfront. Chef Fabio Trabocchi’s vision—here more than at his quartet of other restaurants—is rooted in his native Le Marche, a seafood-happy region of Italy that hugs the Adriatic shoreline. Each preparation of crudo—say, a sundae glass layered with marinated oysters and Prosecco zabaglione—is a miniature tour de force. Twirl your fork into a tangle of chitarra noodles and you’ll encounter beautiful littleneck clams sparked with chilies. A lovely brodetto, the seafood soup Le Marche is famous for, is loaded with octopus, branzino, langoustines, and monkfish in a deeply flavored saffron broth. Co-owner Maria Trabocchi and her team oversee the dining room and its boldface crowd with uncommon grace. And pastry chef Brandon Malzahn is an artist as much as he is a cook. Very expensive.
Also great: Raw Kusshi oysters; tuna carpaccio; bucatini with prawns and sea urchin; bomboloni; apple terrine with hazelnut meringue.