The glorified shopping mall that is the Mosaic district is slick, the space is slick, and the patrons, well, they can be pretty slick, too. But lordy, the plates coming out of RJ Cooper’s gleaming open kitchen—fronted by leather Harley-style seats—are as soulful as any roadside diner’s. Only infinitely more care is shown in the shopping, and there is more precision on the plate.
The cooking isn’t Southern exactly; no Southerner would dare put bone marrow and squid ink on the plate. The South is an inspiration, and Cooper sets about bridging old and new into something that feels familiar . . . until it doesn’t. And, just as often (and much more interestingly), taking the unfamiliar and making it comforting.
Bryan Tetorakis whips up the cocktails and is one of the masters of the form. He can wow you with a standard or a newfangled concoction and can even make you lust after one of his nonalcoholic drinks.
- Fried chicken skins
- Deviled eggs
- Pimiento cheese with crackers
- Swordfish with tasso ham and crawfish
- Oyster stew; shrimp ’n’ grits; chicken-fried quail with grits
- Creamed corn
- Chocolate/peanut-butter mousse
Try Gypsy Soul’s Chef Recipes