Mike Isabella channels the spirit of a Greek Easter feast at his small-plates taverna, where whole animals bronze on spits in the open kitchen and diners knock back lemonades spiked with vodka and mastiha, a licorice-flavored liqueur.
Those roasted meats—baby goat, lemon-marinated lamb, suckling pig—are superlative, slowly crisped and infused with smokiness, and they deserve to be the centerpiece of a meal here. So too the stone-baked flatbread and array of dips, which lean toward the traditional but often get a smart update. (Isabella’s secret to making the taramasalataso incredibly smooth? Puréed cauliflower.)
At night, the purple-draped room booms with a constant crowd. Brunch is quieter, and the menu is just as enticing—spit-roasted chicken, served with lemony potatoes at dinner, also makes a terrific mate to fluffy, honey-drizzled waffles.
- Revithosalata, a hummus-like spread
- Greek fries
- Roasted-duck pie
- Mushroom pie with honey yogurt
- Roasted cauliflower with golden raisins.