During the great restaurant boom of 2013—when 20-plus restaurants opened on 14th Street alone—this Italian joint tended to get overlooked.
The Neapolitan-style pizzas, snipped with scissors at the table, are some of the area’s best, with thin, pliable crusts that never turn soupy. We could just as easily spend the evening snacking on antipasti, which include a glossy bulb of burrata, feather-light fritto misto, and robust chicken-liver crostini.
Given the neighborhood, the place is often packed and always noisy with a Prosecco-happy crowd. Affable partner Ralph Lee makes sure it all runs smoothly—he’s at the host stand nearly every night.
- Arugula salad with avocado and tomato confit
- Gnocchi with sweet potato and maitake mushrooms
- Chicken cooked under a brick
- Lamb blade chops
- White clam, sausage-chili-and-provolone, and fennel-and-salami pizzas