Some of the hottest barstools in town can be found on late afternoons at this darkly lit, brick-walled pizzeria—until 6:30, the excellent thin-crust pies are $10, and locals start jockeying for a spot as early as 3 on weekends. No matter when you go, the pies are some of the area’s best in the overcrowded Neapolitan genre. Shareable rounds are sliced with scissors at the table and judiciously topped with things like shaved fennel, salami, and tomato confit. The kitchen also excels with bright salads and antipasti plus a killer chicken cooked under a brick. Moderate.
Also great: Arugula-and-avocado salad; farro-and-root-vegetable salad; sausage-and-provolone pizza; bucatini with clams; gnocchi.