Ris Lacoste eschews the hallmarks of the 21st-century restaurant interior—there’s no exposed brick, no Modest Mouse soundtrack—in favor of bouquets of flowers and a room in which you can actually hear. Her menu resists change, too, and we appreciate that she’s got the confidence to not mess with proven hits just for innovation’s sake.
Lacoste excels with bistro classics—Julia Child was a friend, and you can sense her influence. We gladly return for the textbook onion soup, pot of mussels, and freshly ground cheeseburger. So, too, anything with a New England bent, whether fried scallops with slaw or an Italian grinder with pickled peppers, among the many worthy specials at the bar.
- Scallop “margarita”
- Portuguese seafood stew
- Braised lamb shank with pomegranate seeds and yogurt
- Portobello Reuben sandwich