You might recognize the name Rob Weland from his stints at Poste and at Cork. Or not. Weland keeps a low profile, choosing to spend his time in the kitchen, cooking—quaint thought! The great benefit of this single-minded devotion is that every dish is carefully wrought, with none of the sloppiness that can creep into a kitchen with an absentee chef. Weland works closely with a local farm, and the bounties are prominently featured (more in spring and summer, when the chef showcased a stunning heirloom-tomato salad). Pastas remain his signature. There are only two, but both are gorgeous testament to the art. Beware the mind/body split that results after just one taste: The body wants to devour the entire plate; the mind wants you to savor each remarkable bite.
Don’t miss: Chicken-liver parfait; bison tartare; grilled mushrooms over grits; arctic char with mushrooms; pastrami hash (brunch); gingerbread cake.