Eat Great Cheap 2015That crunchy-shelled thing you eat with ground beef and orange cheese? That’s not a taco, not really. This, here, is what a taco looks and tastes like. The tortilla—soft, tasting of corn, and served doubled up, the better to contain the abundance of good stuff inside. Which never includes ground beef, though you will find ground chorizo of great pungency and an array of porcine preparations, including a tender, soft pork leg as well as fatty pork cheek, pork lip, and, most mysteriously, cabeza—which translates simply as pork head.
Cuisine: Mexican
Where you can find it: 5020 Edmonston Rd., Hyattsville; 301-277-4477
Also good: Al pastor taco, made with sliced pork (be sure to request the slices of pineapple).
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.
