That crunchy-shelled thing you eat with ground beef and orange cheese? That’s not a taco, not really. This, here, is what a taco looks and tastes like. The tortilla—soft, tasting of corn, and served doubled up, the better to contain the abundance of good stuff inside. Which never includes ground beef, though you will find ground chorizo of great pungency and an array of porcine preparations, including a tender, soft pork leg as well as fatty pork cheek, pork lip, and, most mysteriously, cabeza—which translates simply as pork head.
Where you can find it: 5020 Edmonston Rd., Hyattsville; 301-277-4477
Also good: Al pastor taco, made with sliced pork (be sure to request the slices of pineapple).