About DBGB Kitchen and Bar
Daniel Boulud hasn’t gotten the wild attention that some of his CityCenterDC neighbors have, from either the press (in the case of Momofuku CCDC) or the Department of Health (Fig & Olive). And despite his sterling reputation, the French-born New York chef’s bistro here opened with more of a flicker than a blaze. Turns out it was just taking its time to settle in. The glassy room still feels more tightly controlled than laissez-faire, but that’s a good thing when it comes to the food, which is more confident than ever. French classics—a textbook coq au vin, a quivering Grand Marnier soufflé—are handled beautifully. But it speaks to the kitchen’s versatility that a link of Thai pork sausage is as much of a pleaser as a fat boudin blanc.
Don’t miss: Grilled kale; tuna crudo; roasted salmon with hummus; pancetta-wrapped trout; basil fried rice; baked Alaska.