Daniel Boulud hasn’t gotten the wild attention that some of his CityCenterDC neighbors have, from either the press (in the case of Momofuku CCDC) or the Department of Health (Fig & Olive). And despite his sterling reputation, the French-born New York chef’s bistro here opened with more of a flicker than a blaze. Turns out it was just taking its time to settle in. The glassy room still feels more tightly controlled than laissez-faire, but that’s a good thing when it comes to the food, which is more confident than ever. French classics—a textbook coq au vin, a quivering Grand Marnier soufflé—are handled beautifully. But it speaks to the kitchen’s versatility that a link of Thai pork sausage is as much of a pleaser as a fat boudin blanc.
Don’t miss: Grilled kale; tuna crudo; roasted salmon with hummus; pancetta-wrapped trout; basil fried rice; baked Alaska.