A-list celebrity restaurateur Daniel Boulud headlines this sleek CityCenterDC brasserie, though Ed Scarpone has proven his talent as chef on the ground: He spent years cooking in Thailand and Singapore and also with Boulud—so expect rewarding Asian flavors as well as textbook-perfect renditions of French classics. House-made-sausage plates are wonderful, whether Thai pork with basil-fried rice or Moroccan lamb merguez. Still, it’s the mains and specials where you’ll find the most seasonal creativity. This is a place to save room for dessert. While baked Alaska is the trendy sweet du jour, DBGB’s version with apple sorbet, vanilla and cinnamon ice creams, and a vanilla-vodka igniter is the best in town. Expensive.
Also great: Shishito peppers with soy and cured egg yolk; tuna crudo; steak tartare; ice-cream sundaes.