Celery salad. It sounds like the opposite of fun, right? But leave it to Peter Pastan—a master of elevating even the simplest ingredients at 2Amys and Obelisk—to make it the thing we can’t stop coming back for at this pine-floored slip of a pizza place. The secrets? Three kinds of celery, which make for fantastic crunch, plus a hefty dose of pecorino and lemon. Your best move is to treat dinner as a snackfest of cured meats, cheeses, and small plates from the chalkboard menu (such as a fabulous eggplant Parm or a bowl of clams in sherry butter), then maybe finish with a pizza. The hearty crusts are made with house-milled flour, lightly charred, and sparingly topped.
Don’t miss: Burrata; roasted leeks; white pizza with cotechino and egg; chocolate “salami”; ice creams; San Gennaro cocktail, with lambrusco and grapefruit.