Don’t let the minimalist space fool you: There’s a lot going on at Maketto. The self-described “communal marketplace” is home to a coffee shop/bakery, a men’s boutique, and 60 seats spread out for chef Erik Bruner-Yang’s Southeast Asian restaurant. An A-plus meal relies on time and location—dim sum brunch in the courtyard is magical, while dinner upstairs can feel like Siberia. Thankfully, the kitchen’s lively flavors energize any table, as do the showstopper presentations. We dream about the Flintstonian portion of bone marrow, mounted on rice and heaped with a larb salad of spicy ground pork, chilies, and fresh herbs. Bruner-Yang isn’t afraid to kill his darlings, so while you may not always find the pork bao buns, you’re in equally talented hands sampling his latest wares. Moderate.
Also great: Flash-fried broccoli with peanuts; whole grilled fish; Gruyère dumplings in spicy Chinese chili; cumin lamb; duck-breast bao platter; fried chicken.