We’ve spotted locavore pioneer Alice Waters here a few times, and it’s easy to see why: The craftsmanlike Italian spot specializes in procuring top-quality ingredients and serving them with minimal fuss. Witness the luscious oil-cured tuna belly accompanied by drops of house-made red-wine vinegar. Or the puckery but smooth cocktails dashed with locally brewed vermouth. The restaurant even mills its own flour for stretchy-crusted pizzas, which have improved over time. (They’re not charred to death anymore.) One pie is satisfying enough for a couple, but this is really a place for grazing. Focus on the chalkboard specials, salads, and anything anchovy—including brittle-fried bones served with runny eggs. Moderate.
Also great: Celery salad; watercress Caesar salad; burrata; Calabrese salami pizza; cotechino pizza with egg; prosciutto ice cream; chocolate “salami.”