Fed up with noisy restaurants? This newcomer has departed from the herd, forgoing exposed brick and dangling bulbs in favor of a warm and soothing dining room pulsing with gentle bossa nova. The mood of a casually sophisticated dinner party is reinforced by Aaron Wright’s Mediterranean dishes, many of which—such as his chicken thigh with lemon, olives, and jus—consist of no more than three elements on a plate. Some, including a luscious Sicilian chickpea purée, might look like something you could whip up at home, but there’s more process to them than you can see. The less-is-more approach might not yield a host of discoveries at the table, but you’re almost assured of a relaxing and rewarding meal. Stick around for dessert. There are only a few sweets every night, but each is a model of elegant restraint.
Don’t miss: Patatas bravas;octopus with gigante beans; pappardelle with short ribs; seafood stew; blueberry upside-down cake; pistachio pot de crème.