Washingtonians are used to waiting in line for places like Rose’s Luxury or Bad Saint. But how about Rice Paper, in the Eden Center? On a recent visit, the line was out the door. On a Monday. At lunch. One of its secrets: about ten cooks in the tiny kitchen—twice as many as that of some similar-size restaurants. The degree of detail in these dishes is testament to the depth of the brigade—the complex saucing in a short-rib clay pot, or the lacy crunch of a rice crepe.
Don’t miss: Rocket shrimp; stuffed grape leaves; a sauté of clams and pork; bun thit nuong (a grilled-pork noodle bowl).