Robert Wiedmaier has gone Mediterranean at this upscale-strip-mall bistro, the coziest dining room of the 11 in his empire. Retro lamps give off a rosy glow, while images of lush leaves provide a vivid pop of color. “Vivid” describes the cooking, too. Merguez is punctuated with spiced chickpeas and chermoula, an herby condiment from North Africa. And the beef carbonnade of Wiedmaier’s Belgian eateries morphs into an exotic dish of harissa-glazed beef enlivened with black garlic. It’s enough to make us wish we could talk him into opening a Wildwood in our neighborhood, too.
Don’t miss: Grilled sardines; sweet potatoes with quinoa brittle; avocado-and-fennel salad; chicken with scallion-potato cake; sea bass with pomegranate molasses and freekeh; lamb shank with Madeira jus; pumpkin cake with cream-cheese ice cream; smoked-rye “boulevardier” cocktail.