If David Lynch dreamed up a Persian restaurant, it might look something like this mirrored, zigzag-tiled dining room. In reality, it’s the brainchild of Sebastian Oveysi, a tatted chef/dinnertime host and his father, Masoud. Sebastian works the BYOB room with (Bill) Clintonian charisma, chatting up tables and rightfully hyping his kebabs, which feature spears of grass-fed meats and wild-caught fish arrayed on Instagram-worthy platters strewn with orchids. They should be the centerpiece of any meal here. Bookend them with a starter of eggplant that’s cooked down until it’s almost sticky and a shareable dish of velvety ice cream bright with saffron and fragrant with rose water.
Also good: Shirazi salad; fesenjoon, a pomegranate-and-walnut chicken stew; lamb, bison, and bone-in-chicken kebabs.