Lomo saltado, that mash-up of seared steak, French fries, peppers, and onions with a side of rice, is typically made with chewy, cheap cuts of beef. This cheerful pan-Latin eatery memorably elevates the dish with tenderloin tips and an abundance of savory, gravy-like sauce (great for dunking those fries). Another clean-your-plate dish: a seafood stew with lobster, shrimp, mussels, and clams in a briny, lightly creamy broth. Like most entrées, it’s big enough to share. And many starters, such as cheese-oozing pupusas paired with vinegary slaw, are generous enough to pass as mains.
Also good: Pollo saltado; Cuban-style pork; tres leches cake.