The vibe at Fabio and Maria Trabocchi’s Italian spot tends to be stiffer than an osteria should be—service leans formal, and the crowd is generally heavy on suits. But the menu tells a different story: This is hearty, family-style fare you’ll want to tear into. There are gorgeous pastas, including a black-tinted bucatini tossed with calamari and middleneck clams, and we’ve never encountered a soup here we didn’t love. Don’t ditch out on bookends like cocktails and dessert, including ethereal ricotta doughnuts and a hazelnut coffee cake doused with vin cotto. Expensive.
Also great: Meatballs; salad with pomegranate; bay-scallop crudo; beef tartare; ravioli with ricotta, lemon, and almonds; gnocchi with duck ragu.