It’s barely two years old, but somehow the Riggsby fills us with nostalgia. The crimson-walled restaurant is packed with comforts out of the Eisenhower era: roomy booths and banquettes, properly made martinis, and starters such as stuffed mushrooms and cheese and crackers. The menu isn’t all a throwback—chef/owner Michael Schlow has an affinity for Italian flavors; many of his dishes are cleanly modern. But it’s plates like a chopped salad gilded with Thousand Island dressing and a filet with béarnaise sauce that keep us coming back. Oh, and the best chocolate cake in the city helps, too. Expensive.
Also great: Deviled eggs; Caesar salad; cheeseburger; roasted chicken; potato purée; ice-cream sundae.