Hidden in a hotel that resembles your average Dupont Deco apartment building is a keyhole-shaped doorway. Walk through and you’ll discover a place that transports you, Wes Anderson–style, to another time. The dining room looks late-’70s swank and celebrates cocktail-party relics such as the stuffed mushroom and the Harvey Wallbanger. But chef/owner Michael Schlow, also behind Tico in Logan Circle and a handful of well-regarded Boston-area restaurants, isn’t operating strictly within the realm of the nostalgic here. He and deputy Philippe Reininger also put forth lovely fish dishes—including a cut of striped bass with tangy squash purée and pancetta granola—that feel squarely in the 21st century.
Don’t miss: Jalapeño tater tots; chopped salad with Thousand Island dressing; grilled sardines; sautéed calamari; burger with bacon-onion jam; spaghetti with pecorino, tomatoes, and bacon; roast chicken; chocolate cake; crème brûlée; “Last Frontier” cocktail, with bourbon and amaretto.