Chocolate and sardines sound like a pairing out of What to Expect When You’re Expecting, but when chef Jon Sybert served it—in the form of cocoa-rye bread with butter and meaty, salt-baked fish—it felt downright natural. In fact, we’d be happy fronting a meal with any of Sybert’s whimsical loaves. The rest of the menu at the macramé-accented Adams Morgan bistro meanders from canapé-style snacks to pastas and platters of roasted meats and fish, all meant for sharing. (Bring friends and order as much as possible.) Beverage director William Jensen—who, like Sybert, spent years working at Komi—deserves as much credit as the chef for making this a place we can’t wait to return to. His list is a fascinating collection of house-made shrubs (tart, fruity drinking vinegars), bracing cocktails, and offbeat wines. Expensive.
Also great: Grilled rabbit sausage; cavatelli with pork-belly ragu; goat lasagna; stuffed porgy; cannoli.