Cousins Nick and David Wiseman made a name for themselves with DGS Delicatessen, but it’s their Navy Yard seafood restaurant that’s one of our favorite newcomers. For its waterside setting and patio, yes (especially at sunset), but even more for its impeccable shellfish and thoughtful service. There are so many ways to make a meal here—you could feast entirely on the family-style seafood risotto thickened with coconut milk; graze across chef Daniel Perron’s imaginative crudos and seasonal plates; or tear into seafood towers stacked with local oysters and sweet clams, barely grilled squid, uni, and poached mussels whose jus you’ll suck from the shells. Better yet, work your way through each section of the menu helped along by a cool glass of Muscadet. Moderate.
Also great: Day-boat-scallop crudo; blue-crab salad; carrots with aji peppers and sorghum; clams casino.