100 Very Best Restaurants 2017: Convivial

Pickled rockfish with green papaya and winter radish. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

Cedric Maupillier was born in France, but few chefs revel in lowbrow American cuisine as joyfully as he does. S’mores, pork and beans, pigs in a blanket—all get whimsical updates in his kitchen’s hands. Perhaps his greatest achievement is coq au vin fried chicken, an impossibly crunchy bird glossed in crimson wine reduction. Some dishes tweak French bistro standards: Gorgeous leeks dijonnaise is strewn with cornichons, crumbled egg, and fried capers, while boudin blanc is reimagined with briny scallop mousse instead of veal. Bonus: This is the rare value-minded restaurant that doesn’t put diners through the sensory ringer. Reservations are accepted, the lighting is flattering, parking is free, and the noise level is civilized. Moderate.

Also great: Latkes; turkey-leg confit with ranch dressing; bouillabaisse; sticky-toffee pudding.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.

Anna Spiegel
Food Editor

Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.

Jessica Sidman
Food Editor

Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.

Kristen Hinman
Articles Editor

Kristen Hinman has been editing Washingtonian’s features since 2014. She joined the magazine after editing politics & policy coverage for Bloomberg Businessweek and working as a staff writer for Voice Media Group/Riverfront Times.