Cedric Maupillier was born in France, but few chefs revel in lowbrow American cuisine as joyfully as he does. S’mores, pork and beans, pigs in a blanket—all get whimsical updates in his kitchen’s hands. Perhaps his greatest achievement is coq au vin fried chicken, an impossibly crunchy bird glossed in crimson wine reduction. Some dishes tweak French bistro standards: Gorgeous leeks dijonnaise is strewn with cornichons, crumbled egg, and fried capers, while boudin blanc is reimagined with briny scallop mousse instead of veal. Bonus: This is the rare value-minded restaurant that doesn’t put diners through the sensory ringer. Reservations are accepted, the lighting is flattering, parking is free, and the noise level is civilized. Moderate.
Also great: Latkes; turkey-leg confit with ranch dressing; bouillabaisse; sticky-toffee pudding.