Like his mentor, the French Laundry’s Thomas Keller, Eric Ziebold is obsessed with perfecting the tiniest details. Check out the sumptuous napkins, the custom plates, and the wee hammers for cracking peanut brittle. And this is all at his more “casual” Shaw restaurant above the tasting room Métier. Ziebold’s menu is split into categories such as “history” and “indulgence” (the latter including potato chips with caviar). You can treat each section like its own tasting menu or graze across all. Our move is to order smaller dishes, then one of the shared entrées, such as a superlative whole roast chicken with lemony panade tucked under its bronzed skin. On the side: those Parker House rolls Ziebold made famous over a decade at CityZen. Very expensive.
Also great: Mushroom torchon; sautéed foie gras; lobster French toast; salted-caramel peanut bar.