Glitzy owners—who include reality-TV personalities Giuliana and Bill Rancic—and a black-windowed Vegas vibe have a way of making discerning eaters nervous. And while there are areas to avoid on RPM’s Italian menu (bill-padding antipasti such as lobster caprese salad and octopus with chickpeas, for instance), few places in town are doing so right by the Italian-American repertoire. Our tactic: Order pastas with abandon—a simple, flavor-bursting linguine pomodoro, a strapping carbonara—and share one of the oversize entrées, like the gigantic chicken Parm. Oh, and the garlic bread, a boat-size baguette slathered in garlic confit and butter, dipped in Parmesan, and burnished in the oven. Expensive.
Also great: Caesar salad; fried artichokes; spaghetti with king crab; grilled prawns; lobster fra diavolo; caramel-and-vanilla-gelato cake.