When the ramen trend hit Washington, the city was awash in ultra-porky tonkotsu soups. Now there’s a wealth of styles, and one of the best is Bantam’s “chicken ramen.” The Daikaya team set up shop in a tiny, Technicolor former Burger King in Chinatown, and it dishes up comforting chicken-noodle soups at their finest. We dream about the bowls of creamy paitanbroth, twisty noodles, pulled poultry, dandelion greens, corn, and chili threads. A small menu begs thorough exploration, especially brined-and-fried birds dressed in ginger-scallion oil and served alongside rice drizzled with butter and poultry drippings. Inexpensive.
Also great: Chicken dumplings in hot chili oil; miso ramen; house sake.