Chef/owner Jeff Black’s popular Palisades destination is many things. A standout fish market offers such delicacies as wild hake (you can even have it cooked to order by the kitchen). At the bar, locals gather for oysters and golden fish and chips, while the dining room provides a finer-dining experience. The roster of old favorites is long, from clam-packed chowder to bouillabaisse. Still, experimentation is rewarded. Chef Mike Huff embellishes plates with creative pastas such as brown-butter gnocchi with potato-crusted fluke. Big spenders can splurge on caviar service to start, but save room for dessert—especially butterscotch pot de crème, on the menu since day one. Expensive.
Also great: Wood-grilled sardines; fried clams; cavatelli with scallops; blue cod with bacon; banana coconut cream pie.