Walk through the tall metal gate at Nick Stefanelli’s Union Market restaurant and the industrial-wholesale strip gives way to a California-esque courtyard and a concrete-clad open kitchen. The menu pulls you to Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot, where the chef has roots. Unlike other tasting-menu destinations, this one offers the flexibility to pick and choose dishes from different categories. Want to make a meal of just pastas? Linguine with XO sauce and cappelletti stuffed with squash and ricotta make it a temptation. Then again, you wouldn’t want to miss the beef tripe braised in a Sicilian fish stew with lobster—a highbrow/lowbrow duo of remarkably similar textures. Up for a nightcap? Masseria boasts the city’s largest collections of vintage amaros. Very expensive.
Also great: Foie gras cannoli; veal tartare; matsutake-mushroom risotto; duck with spiced sauce; lamb with chickpeas; chocolate torta.