Head down an alleyway, through the unmarked arched door, and you’ll find yourself in a towering dining room bustling like a town square in Beirut or Tangier. At the center of it all, flames rise from a giant hearth cooking pistachio-crusted lamb kebabs,chermoula-marinated shrimp, and other homestyle dishes from the Caucasus and the Middle East. The best way to eat here is to pick a couple of wood-fired items—the turmeric-rubbed whole chicken is a must—and then load up on an array of vibrant salads, spreads, and condiments. Tear off a piece of warm flatbread, then mix and match the flavors. Moderate.
Also great: Beet borani; Beiruti hummus; muhamarra; labneh; Romano beans; tenderloin kebab; grilled sardines.