Osteria dining is typically a simple, laid-back affair, but restaurateur Fabio Trabocchi doesn’t do anything without a little finesse, prettying up scallop crudo with flower petals or up-charging for tableside-shaved Alba white truffles. Still, the cooking is comforting at its core. A juicy veal chop parmigiana upgrades your average nonna’s recipe with prosciutto and salsa verde, and lobster gnocchi in a rich tomato sauce spills out of the crustacean’s shell. Whatever you do, save room for the ricotta bomboloni with warm chocolate sauce. Expensive.
Also great: Parmesan churros; Caesar salad; meatballs; shells with tomato and bacon “fumé”; “drunken” tuna.